Considered somewhat a shortcoming of Minox 8×11 film photography was that the film stocks available on the market were limited to only a few stocks and ISO. Many users wanted to experiment with other film stocks and with various sensitivities. So, the reloading of used Minox cartridges appeared to be an alternative to the above problem.
It wasn’t like the film cutters, from 16mm and 35 film to various formats, were unknown; these were already in existence since the 50s, although not in 8×11 format. A few examples:
- As far as I know, the first film cutter was introduced by Suzuki Optical Works in the 50s, for cutting down two strips of single perforated 8mm film (from 16mm double perforated), used in the Japanese subminiature camera Echo 8.
- Microtec USA used to cut their own film from 16mm stock to 9.5mm, in the early 90s.
- The Ajax 12 (aka F21) Soviet film camera had its own film cutter (film size 21mm, frame 18x24mm). It cut regular perforated 35mm film to 21mm unperforated). And there were others, for other formats. Of course, the first 8×11 film cutter should be considered the one Walter Zapp used to cut his first Minox films, in the Riga VEF factory.
- Again, as far as I am aware, the first commercially available 8×11 film cutter was Minox 8×11 Film Cutter, as sold by Minox GmbH Germany, manufactured by Asanuma Camera Mechanical, Laboratory LTD, Tokyo, Japan, aka Acmel.
- And there is that plastic 8×11 film cutter, the MiniMinox, which I have discussed here: https://juliantanase.com/miniminox-film-cutter/
- For a good while (like 15 yrs) I used a very good film cutter, made by John Birkby, of FilmTech company in the UK: https://juliantanase.com/zipslit-film-cutter/. Alas, this particularly good item (for me, at least) is no longer made.
Along the years, a lot of models appeared, made by Minox enthusiasts, various ways of cutting the film (rotary or fix blades); some successful, some (most of them) not. For a long time, the models using replaceable razor blades were popular, and still are. Cheap, simply made, easy to use, they were the staple of Minox community members with which to cut their own film stock and reload their 8×11 cassettes.
Some years ago, my friend Jimmy Li designed and produced a couple of 35mm to 8×11 and 16mm film cutters, rotary blades, cutting 8×11 and 16mm film from 35mm stock. As far as I know, these models are no longer made. My review of these cutters can be seen here:
https://juliantanase.com/film-cutter-35mm-to-16-9-2mm/
https://juliantanase.com/minox-film-cutter-35mm-to-9-2mm/
A very interesting debate was sparked by the width of the proper 8×11 film: various information was published on the wide web: 9.0mm, 9.2mm, 9.4mm, 9.5mmm. This debate still continues, with users swearing by one width or another. We know that the original width (Zapp, VEF) was 9.5mm.
That said, what I see is that the most agreed-to width is 9.2mm, which is also the one I cut my film to. I have found that 9.5mm could put some stress on the cassette and of course, on the camera’s winding mechanism.
If you wish to read more about various 8×11 film cutters out there, please check this link:
https://juliantanase.com/category/accessories/minox-film-cutters/
8X11 FILM CUTTER BY AUSGEKNIPST
Along with a new 8×11 film cassette model (see my review: https://juliantanase.com/ausgeknipst-8×11-film-cassette-review/ ), I was sent two models of a film cutter, a 120 MF format to 6 x 9,2mm strips, and a 35mm to 2 x 9.2mm strips.
Ausgeknipst – made film cutters: 120 and 35mm to 9.2mm
Both are identically built; of course with the respective dimensions, to accommodate the width of each film format. The materials, blades, design – all these are similar. These are both 3D printed, and are modular. I do not have two of each model, so I cannot check the interchangeability of parts, but I would expect it to be so.
The principle of building a block that holds razor blades, with a separate top plate to keep the film onto the cutting surface is not new. I have had a few of these, somewhat crudely made, which were a pain in the proverbial side (using them, that is): https://juliantanase.com/film-cutter-35mm-to-minox-9-2mm/
Main issue was that the cutting surface was made of paper, which of course got scratched or worse, due to humidity became unusable. Dragging the film emulsion through that was like sanding the film. This became more apparent, since one had to press onto the top plate when using it.
Lower, I will attempt explain the way this works, materials, ease of use, etc. I will do this for both cutters, since they are identical in construction but for the size and blades numbers.
DIMENSIONS
The 120 cutter is 48mm in height, 74mm in length, 64mm in depth.
The 35mm cutter is 48mm in height, 64mm in depth, 44mm in length.
HOW IT WORKS
What is new here? Well, there are two major issues that the manufacturer of this film cutter took seriously and solved the in an elegant manner:
- The top plate, the one that should hold the film firmly onto the cutting surface
- The ease with which one may replace the blades
Top plate problem has been solved by creating a locking position of the plate onto the main block itself. By means of two notches on the guiding rails of the main block, the plate slides in and out easy. Before you put the film onto the cutting surface, you slide out the plate, by pushing it backwards. Once you put the film negative and made certain the film is well aligned with the cutting rails, put the plate back onto the rails and push forward; the plate will lock onto the block and you are set to cut.
The notches are situated to the front of the block, so locking position is forward, to the direction you would drag the film through the blades. This way you cannot unlock the plate, since your movement is is forward.
Plate set to engage in the notches and lock
The distance between plate and cutting surface is less than 1mm. This makes a comfortable space to run the film through.
MATERIALS
This is a PLA+ filament, from what I was told. It seems very sturdy, and is printed without any flaws. Only on the top and bottom surfaces the finish is not matte and it ensures a good grip, while on the sides and on the cutting surface the finish is matte black.
The cutting surface is also 3D printed, with smooth texture. I did not see any scratches on the film that I cut. Just make sure you dust the entire block and top plate before engaging in cutting any film.
BLADES AND REPLACEMENT
The 120 cutter has 7 blades, the 35mm one has 3 blades. The block of the 120 cutter contains 7 full razor blades while the 35mm cutter has 3 such razor blades. The blades are of the normal type, available everywhere. These particular blades are Astra.
The cutting is done by passing the film through the cutting surface by pulling it manually. The blades are inserted into a modular “ sandwich”, made by alternating a plastic spacer with a razor blade.
You have to push the module out, from the square opening found on the bottom side of the cutter. Just remove the cutting plate and push the module upwards; it will slide right out, Grab it and take it out from the cutter’s block. Take care not to cut yourself while doing so; these blades are vicious, when new.
Once you took the module out, you will see the blades on one side, and on the other the other side of the blade module; it sits flush with the module’s surface. Use your fingers to push the blade’s module from the side where the clear entire blade is visible. The blade module comes right out, the action being very smooth.
The module containing the blades can be extracted by pushing it out.
Blade module halfway extracted
To take out the actual blades and spacers, push here.
This is side where the blades and spacers will come out from.
Blades and spacers – take these out one by one
Blades and spacers “” sandwich” – reinsertion
The blades are not glued or otherwise fixed to the spacers; the entire module is held in place by friction. You will notice that the module is a perfect fit for the recess in the main block. It slides in and out easy but it does not move freely; you will eed to give it a nudge when taking it out.
After you take the blade module out, just rearrange the blades to bring a fresh edge and attach each spacer. It is very easy and you cannot go wrong with reinserting the module back into the main block. The spacers have a cut corner, so it only fits into the right position. Again, handle the blades with utmost care.
CUTTING THE FILM
In the dark, just make sure you align the film leader to the cutting surface guides and attach the top plate, locking it. Hold the cutter firmly, do not push onto the top plate. Drag to the length desired and roll into your cassette or store it rolled in a black container for later reload.
6 strips x 9.2mm out of 120 film format
2 strips x 9.2mm out of 35mm film format
CONCLUSION
I am pleased with the quality of build, design and materials. A lot of thought was put into making this and do believe it is a good addition to your Minox gear. I am particularly pleased about the top plate’s cutout channels, so not to hit or touch the blades while sliding it in or when in operation.
I haven’t got any chipped margins or wobbly-cut strips on my cut film with this item. The way this is made, it would be almost impossible to get It wrong. Just dust it off and keep it in a dust free container or box when not in use. Make sure you change the blades, based on the usage, type of film (thick film or those on special emulsion base).
AVAILABILITY
These 8×11 film cutters are readily available in the Ausgeknipst shop online here:
MY CONCLUSION
Sturdy, light, exceptionally well-made, priced for value and available. A lot of work and not a small amount of ingenious creativity was put into this, and it shows.
DISCLAIMER
I have been a Minox 8×11 film and camera user for over 25 yrs. The opinions expressed here are solely my own and based on personal experience. I always strive to provide honest and unbiased reviews. Other than being sent these items to be reviewed, I have no affiliation or commercial interest to the manufacturer, and this review was not sponsored or paid by any means. This product has been found to be satisfactory for my own use, and in no way it is implied that your own experience will be similar. I strongly advise to make your own judgement on the product reviewed here.